Climbing in Leavenworth 5-11-2012

Fletch, Mindy, Ed, Pat, Marietta and I all climbed in Leavenworth last weekend. We climbed R&D to Cocaine Crack, Bobs Wall, The Snag, and Hobo Gulch. I got shut down on almost everything I tried to lead Saturday…but it was still fun. In the evening, we played music around the campfire. I’ve picked up the guitar again after a 3 year break. Here are a few photos:

Fletch topping out on R&D

Fletch topping out on R&D, Icicle river in the distance below

Fletch on Bob's Wall, Leavenworth

Fletch on Bob's Wall, Leavenworth

Ed watching Fletch play guitar

Ed watching Fletch play guitar

Fletch playing beautiful music

 

 

 

Purdy Spit

Sue and I hiked the Purdy spit this morning. There were big geoducks sticking their necks up in the air by the dozens. We could have easily dug a couple up for dinner.. We had to be careful not to step on the poor little guys.

Geoduck on the Purdy spit

Geoduck on the Purdy spit

Not sure what this was, but it had pretty colors:

star fish?

star fish?

 

jquery freelance project

Almost exactly a year ago a client contacted me. They wanted an interactive map built in Flash. It was a great learning project for me. It forced me to update my skills, and move out of my comfort range into unexplored territory.

Client work is a win-win for me as an instructor. I benefit from being forced to stay current, and my students benefit from the knowledge I acquire working for clients. I pass that knowledge on to my students…or at least as much as they can absorb.

The same client contacted me this spring and asked me to expand on the interactive map, but not in Flash. They wanted it to work across all devices including IOS devices (iPhone, iPad, iTouch), Androids, and even some of the smaller smartphones. I watched a few tutorials on the new programming language this required…but was not able to ‘jump in and swim’.

I found I needed a broader base of understanding of the language. I broke down and bought a book, read half way through it and the light came on. I got it very very close to working…but came up against my lack of knowledge again. I showed it to a programming friend who is  a graduate of our program. He came up with a better solution…and half an hour later I had a working rough draft.

I really like web design. It reminds me a lot of printing. There is trouble shooting, guessing at solutions, throwing things at the wall to see if anything sticks, and finally knowledge, followed by production work. There is an instant payoff when things work…in printing, we had to wait for hours before seeing the finished product. In web design, if you program it right, you press F5 and there it is instantly.

Sue, Lisa, Tim and I went up to Vertical World today and climbed for a few hours. I started strong, even finished a 10a out across the roof, but ran out of steam quickly. Still it was a good time for all. Afterward I went to Glazer’s Camera shop and bought a new lens to replace my 18-250 Sigma that broke after 3 years. I think I might be done with Sigma. A $500 lens ought to last more than 3 years. It was made from mostly plastic, even the moving parts. I did a little reseach on the problem and it looks like it would be too expensive to be worth fixing. Instead I opted to buy some higher quality glass…professional quality…hopefully it will last longer.

The OT I’ve been working has worn me out so much I’m not even excited about finally replacing my broken lens. Maybe tomorrow I will feel refreshed.

Regular Route, Careno Crag, Leavenworth

Fletch, Vladi, Craig, Merica, Karen and I climbed the Regular Route on Careno Crag in Leavenworth Sunday. I was very rusty and thrashed the first and last pitch. The middle pitch was fun, though climbing past the rattlesnake in the crack was hairy. The snake was right where we needed to put our hands, so we had to hope he wasn’t in a bad mood as we climbed past him up the crack.

Here are a few pictures.

Merica on top of Careno Crag Leavenworth

Merica on top of Careno Crag Leavenworth

Karen on Careno

Karen on Careno

 

I’ve been studying Jquery for a client project that is due in June. It’s a lot of fun, but it’s hard work on top of my regular teaching  job. Still, I needed to learn it, and it  will be awesome to share this new knowledge with my students.

Being deaf in one ear is similar to using an avalanche beacon.  I can’t tell what direction sounds are coming from. A great example of this is when my cell phone rang this morning. I walked through the rooms of the house trying to find where the sound was loudest. I walked into the living room and the sound receded. Nope, not in there. I walked into the bedroom…getting quieter. Oh, let’s try the kitchen….aaah, sound is louder, phone must be in here somewhere. I still didn’t know where it was, even though it was in the room…but at least I could search for logical locations…like in my work pack.

With our old avalanche beacons, you walk a criss cross pattern in the avalanche debris, listening for where the sound is loudest…just like having a deaf ear and looking for a ringing cell phone. I lost my left side hearing 12 years ago when I got Menieres disease in my left ear.

Climbing video from Index

I took my Canon 7D up to Index. In the camera bag I had a little mini tripod with a ballhead mounted on top. I was able to capture a nice video of Craig on site leading a very stiff off hands splitter crack.

Meanwhile, I’ve been studying JavaScript and Jquery. I have a client who needs a project done. I tried to farm this out to my graduates, but no one was willing to take it on. This is forcing me to update my web skills, which have lagged behind the curve a bit.

Clint gets his ACL surgery tomorrow. It will be nice to get that ski injury fixed up.

Selling my Speed Graphic 4 x 5 camera

I’m selling my Speed Graphic 4 x 5 camera

Speed Graphic 4x5 camera

Speed Graphic 4x5 camera

I bought this to take transparencies of my landscape paintings. I don’t use it anymore because my digital cameras are good enough for my needs. Really though, if I was making a living as a painter, I wouldn’t sell it. Even the best digital only shoots at 40 megs, and that’s not big enough for a  30 inch print of a painting.

Sue (working as camera operator) and I shot a video with my new Canon 7D about the Speed Graphic. I go over the controls and function of the old beast. It’s a cool camera if you are into old stuff that still works. Here is a link to the page.

I’ve taught myself Adobe Premiere by watching an online lesson at www.lynda.com. For a while, I was in a panic because I didn’t have enough video footage to work with on my own projects in Premiere. But now I have too much video footage and not enough time in which to edit it. Editing is slow work, especially on a 3 year old mac.

My next big editing project is to compile a bunch of videos from the climbing gym into one short video. It’s a sunny Saturday and I am spending it at the computer. I keep telling myself that it’s ok, I need to learn this stuff…but the sunshine is calling to me…

 

These are a couple photos I took on Spring break on a climbing trip. My daughter is all grown up now. She and her brother save lives for a living at a local ER room.

Lisa and Tim at Smith Rocks

Lisa and Tim at Smith Rocks

 

Lisa at Smith

Lisa at Smith

Teaching myself Adobe Premier

I’ve been studying Adobe Premier

www.lynda.com has a great tutorial on Premiere. Simultaneously I’ve been learning to shoot my own video footage on my 7d. The weather has been steady rain, so I rarely get any decent light outside. A true cameraman could get some nice footage of raindrops in a puddle or something, but I am far from a skilled cameraman.

I had three former students, all very successful, come by today. Brett has been working in SEO for several years. Jeromy runs his own freelance business, and Rob learned Photoshop and Dreamweaver from us before heading over to Bates. They have all done great things since leaving here.

It was nice seeing them all in one day, and knowing that I played a small part in helping them get where they are today. Teaching is a cool job.

The new stuff I’m learning about video is relatively easy compared to web programming. You are basically just dragging things around, there is no code involved at all. Editing video seems very clear cut compared to if, else and for loops.

Where it gets less well defined is the artistic side of video. Rob was talking about how he wanted to learn how to “tell a story” in video. An analogy for that would be the situation a painter finds himself in after taking a class in oil painting. Okay, I know how to prepare my canvas, and mix my oil paints correctly to make all the various colors, but what do I do with this blank canvas?

What is my story? And if I have a story, how do I tell it with video? We were talking about Janet, and how much we miss her. She told Rob that no video should every be longer than 2 minutes, unless you have a very compelling story to tell that will keep your audience riveted to the screen.

DIY video camera slider

DIY video camera slider

I’ve spent the last week tinkering out in the garage with a video camera slider. They are also called glide tracks. This is version two. I made my first version from copper pipe, but that was a disaster. This one is a copy of something I have only seen in you tube videos. If you buy it from him, you get a finished, very professional product. It is totally worth the money to buy it pre-made from the guy who invented this concept…you do NOT want to spend 3 long days out in the garage making all the mistakes I made to come up with a poor copy of his amazing invention.

Still, it was a fun way to spend time, and I learned a lot. If you do insist on building this, you will need a good drill press, a hack saw and some aluminum, plus $90 worth of stainless steel rod. I got the metal at http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/

camera slider

camera slider

I’ve not yet filmed any good footage with this. My camera and I are still getting to know each other. When I get some good slider footage I will post it here.

camera slider

DIY ham radio antenna mount for Toyota Tacoma

These are pictures of my DIY ham radio Tarheel antenna mount for a 2004 Toyota Tacoma pickup truck.

I built this from steel bar purchased at Home Depot. The bolts are stainless steel one quarter twenty. I did not do a good job of painting it. Ideally it would have been made from stainless steel, but that is a bit harder to find. I have recently discovered http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/. They are an amazing chain of stores that sell all kinds of metal in small quantities for home inventors.

Notice the bare unpainted metal. I kept all the contact surfaces free of paint so there would be an electrical ground to the car body, from the antenna.

Here are the holes I drilled in my Tacoma pickup. I made a dummy out of cardboard to get the measurements right before I started cutting metal. When this antenna was mounted, I had scraped off all the paint where the antenna was mounted on the truck for electrical ground. I have since removed the mount and repainted the truck. No holes show from the outside of the truck.

If I remount this in the future, I will use a better paint. I hurried the paint job, and it peeled as you can see in the photos. I took my Tarheel antenna off because I got bored with ham radio. I sold all my ham gear and put the money toward my new hobby: DSLR cinematography.

 

Had better weekends

I’ve been working on a glidecam/steadicam system for walking with a DSLR video camera. I’m getting close, but my machinist skills are holding me back. I’ve also started working on a DIY glide track slide cam. This last DIY project is coming together faster, though his copper rails seem weak.

I was standing at the Seattle gym Sunday. Marty fell and landed on top of me from about 15 feet up. It wasn’t really L’s fault. There is a lot of rope stretch on high top ropes, and I shouldn’t have been standing under Marty, I know better. I felt a bunch of cracking and popping in my neck as his rear collided with the top of my head. He said it was a glancing blow. He was already coming tight on L’s belay when he hit me, so it could have been much worse. But my neck is not real happy right  now.

Even worse, my son was skiing the trees at Baker Saturday. He had over tightened his bindings for jumping, it was the last run of the day, his partner had already quit, and he was feeling cocky, skiing carelessly through the trees. He hooked a tip in a tree, which stopped him fast since the overtightened binding didn’t release. He tore a bunch of ligaments in his knee, though we won’t know just how bad until he sees an ortho guy tomorrow.

Like I said, we’ve had better weekends. I can tell it’s getting towards the end of the quarter. A few days off will be very nice. I’m looking forward to capturing a lot of video.