Yosemite 9-6 to 9-17-2008

Mark, Christine and Chris D. (Crillz)

This is my trip report on one and a half weeks in the Valley, with a short side trip to Lover's Leap. It was Chistine and Chris's first trip to Yosemite, and I enjoyed showing them around. It was mostly too hot to climb in the sun in the afternoon, though we soldiered through a few sunny mid day climbs because they were to classic to pass by. The only climb I don't have pictues of is Munginella because I forgot my camera that day. The drive back took 15 hours and we saw and heard from not a single bear. We had no epics, not even a headlamp rappel and I was surprised to find myself leading climbs I'd lot been on in 28 years. I guess there is hope for us old guys after all!

Christine on Bears Reach 5.7, Lover's Leap

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5.8 finish to Bears Reach, Lover's Leap

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Me, Christine and Chris on top of Bears Reach, Lover's Leap

Christine suiting up for Church Bowl Lieback 5.8, Yosemite

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Chris D. relaxing on the second pitch of Munginella, Five Open Books area, Yosemite

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Swan Slab, Yosemite

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Apron Jam 5.9 below Mr. Natural on Glacier Point Apron. This climb is a 70 foot layback up a 4 to 6 inch crack. Bring several 4 to 5 camalots and a #2 big bro.

More Apron Jam

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Chris D. leading Son of Sam 5.9, Glacier Point Apron. We found this to be the hardest 5.9 in the valley. The climbing was slick friction for the feet supported by finger tips in a one quarter inch horizontal seem. Chris used small cams though small wired stoppers would work as well.

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Christine leading first pitch of Harry Daley 5.8.

Gorgeous views are everywhere you look in the valley

rapping off Harry Daley

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Christine leading Church Bowl Lieback 5.8.

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Chris, on belay

This next series of shots is from the incomparable Bishop's Terrace route at Church Bowl. This route is only rated 5.8, but be forewarned, it is an old school 5.8 and if you don't have your full skill set of stemming, hand and fist jamming ready, it will work you badly. Fortunately, I've been training all summer for the Valley and found it a ton of fun with very cool moves. This is Chris D. following in fine style.

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Christine loved it as well, here she is styling up the 5.8 finish moves.

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Though she is cruising, she may have made a few complaints about: "Stop taking pictures and take up the damn rope!". Sorry Christine...I knew you'd love the photos...and I really did have you on belay.

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That was one hot climb...can we swim in the river now?

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Christine leading the second pitch of Commitment 5.9 in the Five Open Books area. These routes are shady after lunch. Note the big 5.9 roof above.

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The views on the walk down from Commitment.

Me

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Christine and Chris getting their first look at El Capitan.

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Friends rapping off the Grack 5.6, Glacier Point Apron

The Grack, gorgeous finger jamming on superb rock.

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We cut it a little close on the Grack, getting down just before dark.

Christine following Angel

Back to Church Bowl where both Christine and Chris led Church Bowl Tree, 5.10a. It was Christine's first 10a gear lead.

Church Bowl Tree 5.10a climbs pin scars up very polished granite with a runout bouldery start and a desperate finger jam finish.

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Masked stalker ambushing Christine. Or maybe is was just me, wearing my mosquito net. The knats were terrible and loved to fly into our eyes.

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Chris D. leading the first pitch of Reed's Direct 5.9. This is a gorgeous hand jam fest up stellar rock. We ran out of time that night, but came back the next day so I could lead the second pitch. The second pitch is one of the prettiest hand cracks you well ever find. The crack tapers back and forth from small hands to fists. There are many v-notches that accept passive gear like wired stoppers or hexes though cams work fine as well. Because it leans slightly right, and is almost vertical, there are no footholds on the right. You have to keep both hands and feet in the crack all the time. I ran out of power halfway up and had to hang once to rest. The climbing was lovely though. Because it is such a spectacular line, tourist gather on the road 200 feet below. Christine had a crowd of 10 people taking her picture as she followed in the baking heat.

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Christine following me up the first pitch of Serenity 5.10a. This crack climbs monster pin scars and is quite runnout at the start, if you don't count a cam with only two lobes sticking in a flared pocket.

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Chrisine leading the second pitch of Serenity. It was a bit of a hang fest, but it was also only her second 10a lead on gear. I was very very happy she finished it because I was dreading having to rescue our gear. I'm not at all sure I could have led it myself. The friction traverse is desperately thin on one quarter inch stoppers. Because she is shorter, she had to make 2 intermediate steps on steep friction, whereas for me, I just reached across. Nice lead Christine!

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Getting dizzy from heat on Serenity.

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Chris D., belaying Christine up his lead of the first pitch of Central Pillar of Frenzy, a 5 star, 5 pitch 5.9 on Middle Cathedral Rock across from El Cap.

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Christine leading the sustained 5.9 fingers section of the second pitch on Pillar of Frenzy.

Chris D. seconding my lead of the 5.7 roof, and 5.8 offwidth on the 4th pitch of Frenzy.

My friends cruising through the 5.8 offwidth. With two 4 camalots, and one 5, this pitch was a cakewalk. We learned to move our party of three almost as fast as two climbers by simul-belaying both followers at once.

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Christine mastering her offwidth techniques.

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Me and the El Cap view from Frenzy.

Christine putting her shoes back on at the belay. Ahh, the pain!

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I had a very close call here. While swinging leads with three people, you frequently have to swap rope ends and manage the ropes. I got interupted while tieing my knot and forgot about it. When it was my turn to follow, Chris put me on belay and began pulling up rope. I unhooked both daisies and was about to start climbing when I looked down at my untied knot and saw it pulling out of my harness leaving me completely unattached to the rock, 4 pitches up.

A British friend leading the 5.7 roof below us.

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The view across to El Cap from the 5th pitch of Cental Pillar of Frenzy.

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Christine following the 5.4 second pitch of Nutcracker.

Me

Christine following the fourth pitch of Nutcracker 5.8.

Baking our brains out at the belay for the crux 6th pitch of Nutcracker. She made me lead the last two pitches as punishement because she had wanted to drive home that day, instead of baking again...smart woman. The crux was a desperately hard old school 5.8 mantle. Actually, there are two mantles. The first mantle is the hardest, and I backed off twice, grabbing gear to prevent falling. On my third try, I led it cleanly, finding a small side pull on left wall of the polished open book that helped me balance my way up the first mantle, from where I could easily grab the jug on the second mantle, which was a straight forward heel hook. For all the trouble I had, I thought Christine would struggle being shorter...but she didn't even slow down. She commented later that her toes were hurting so bad all she could think about was getting the hell off the rock.

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Last belay on the last day on the last climb of our trip.

Christine and I at the top of Nutcracker.

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